Author: Heather Sendera

Its hard to see in the photos but we caught our first glimpse of the North Sea this morning. Very motivating!

Stayed at: Elstavale B&B

Today was more than 22 miles but mercifully it was mostly flat.

We wandered through a town that was originally established as a Roman fort in the 1st Century which is amazing to think about.

We crossed the River Swale for the last time and saw a large waterbird on the rocks looking for breakfast. 

We later stopped at a lovely old church that opens daily for walkers to grab a cold drink, a snack or coffee/tea and use the bathrooms. A saving grace in these desolate areas!

It was only 78F/26C but much of the day was in direct sun so it was quite a hot walk. We explored many fields, guessing at the crops being grown and trying not to bother the farm animals.

It was also a day of avoiding modern transportation: first crossing train tracks and then rushing across 6 lanes of highway traffic.

In just about the last meadow we crossed we noticed heaps of what looked like bees with hot pink stripes but turned out to likely be Burnet moths. I could only get this not so great shot of two of them together (presumably coupling):

We have experienced absolutely incredible hospitality so far from everyone we’ve crossed paths with….it’s been exceptional. So we were disappointed to have our first negative experience at the local pub. After walking 1/2 mile past our B&B to make it to the pub before they stopped serving food at 6pm, we were turned away because they were “fully booked”. It wouldn’t have been a big deal other than the fact that they are the only restaurant in the entire town, there were lots of open tables including picnic tables outside which we offered to sit at but were still told they were running out of food (despite numerous reserved signs on empty tables).

So instead we walked a mile back the other way to buy gas station sandwiches, potato chips and beer. Dinner of champions.

If you are counting on eating at the Blue Bell Inn if you ever happen to be in Ingleby Arncliffe be aware they are not counting on you. 😉

110 miles (177km) from the start, we had a fabulous day of rest. We started the day with a beautiful breakfast at our BnB; which is said to be the oldest house in Richmond and is noted for its namesake former owner dying in the house in 1616.

After breakfast Heather sat in the window seat and stitched while Skye got a massage

Skye then read in the window seat while Heather enjoyed a massage after which we headed out for the day.

We slowly wandered around Richmond which is a fantastic small city with a rich history. We explored the Saturday market and local shops as well as touring a theater built in 1788. (https://www.georgiantheatreroyal.co.uk/). The volunteer guide was extremely knowledgeable and we learned a lot about Georgian theatre in particular but also theatre in general.  Highly recommended to anyone visiting Richmond!

Did you know the reason the box office got its name was because originally all theatre tickets were sold on a first come first served basis but at a certain point they started allowing the monied to reserve the boxes (fancy seats) ahead of time?

A restoration in the 1960s revealed original paint colours as well as some original illustrations and labels on the balconies. 

We bought a cheese tray at a local cheese monger and enjoyed it in the gorgeous and sunny Friary Gardens.

Now we are again back in our room icing our knees and resting before dinner. Hopefully we’re ready to tackle 22.5m/36k tomorrow and 21m/34k the next!

Stayed at: Swaledale Yurts

We started the morning with breakfast at our BnB and then a stroll through town. We visited a gorgeous church which has vicars recorded back as far as 1223! They’ve kept fantastic documentation and house a collection of incredible artifacts and a beautiful pipe organ that we were lucky enough to hear being played.

Today called for rain and low visibility so we decided to give our aching bodies a bit of a rest and took the low route. Still up to 1100ft/340m elevation but definitely easier than the 2172ft/660m elevation of the higher route.

We saw sheep, cows, goats, waterfalls, ancient ruins and also one very happy horse rolling in a meadow.

Because of our early arrival we are already in our yurt on the banks of the River Swale (yes, a yurt!), listening to the rain and reading/stitching. A perfect chance to rest our weary legs before a lovely home-cooked meal and an hour in the hot tub tonight! Much needed rest before a long and difficult day expected tomorrow.

Stayed at: Old Croft House

Today was a glorious day of walking; with very little elevation! Lovely weather (63F/16C and partly cloudy with a beautiful breeze)

We tackled 20.5 m/33km in our quickest finish thus far. What a difference it makes walking rolling hills instead of hiking mountains!

Even though it was our longest distance walked (so far), it was our easiest day: filled with flowers, sheep, cows, dogs, bucolic views, conversation, and loads of sheep poop.

We are now safely ensconced in a fabulous BnB in the lovely town of Kirkby Stephen.

And as we type we are enjoying a local ale at a pub hosting an open mic featuring fiddle, recorder (!) and many guitars and singers. It’s reminding Skye of The Mighty Boosh in the nicest possible way.

Stayed at: Noran Bank Farm

For a bit of context to today’s post:

We started our day at the lovely Langstrath Country Inn. Many people we’ve met along the way are jealous because we got into the best accommodations thanks to Skye being so well prepared and starting the booking process last July!

We started out early and had a fabulous 4 hour hike with beautiful views on the way to Grasmere.

Grasmere is a sweet little (very old) village with lots of tourists. We had a fabulous lunch and then visited William Wordsworth’s grave and the famous Grasmere Gingerbread shop. Lines can be down the block but we got lucky with only a short line and snagged a bag of fresh (still warm!) gingerbread.

We then resumed our hike for what should have been a 4 hour very steep hike to our next accommodation. It was amazing! The best hike I think I’ve ever been on. Incredible views and walking miles along the ridge of a mountain with views on either side. Absolutely stunning.

Only issue: we made a wrong turn. Somewhere in what should have been a 4 hour hike, we followed the wrong pile of rocks and took a significant detour.

Thankfully technology exists and once we were in Rydal and had cell service, we realized our mistake. We grabbed a meal at the pub and called an Uber #thanksYFS. Heading to bed and off on another adventure tomorrow!

Stayed at: Langstrath Hotel

EDIT: 15/6 update to Day 2

After an incredibly warm welcome and hosting at Fox and Hounds we headed directly for the western edge of Ennerdale Water. You can choose to go around it on either side but we opted for the original Wainwright route which did not disappoint. We dipped our hands in the water at Anglers Crag and roughly halfway along the southern boundary we climbed Robin Hood’s chair before walking along a lovely, mossy forest where a tree had grown in such a way to form a natural bench with a view of the water.

After reaching the eastern end of Ennerdale water we began our ascent along a path through plantations. After a rather long but gentle uphill climb we headed up a rather steep zig zag trail to Hay Stacks – the place Alfred Wainwright suggested his ashes be scattered. While the climb winded us it was totally worth it. Such a peaceful spot with truly awe inspiring views. It also had a few walkers with dogs, one of whom looked a lot like our Bonnie and came sniffing around for any lunch items we may not have had a use for.

The clamber down and following steep haul up and over Loft Beck were trying but the ridge walk views were amazing.

Descending was a challenge but we made it and were so glad to see some of the walkers from the day before as we walked into town at Stonethwaite to our lodgings at Langstrath Country Inn.

A shower, a feed and a couple of ales had us gratefully in bed by 10.

We had our first minor glitch of the adventure. A massive storm swept through Chicago yesterday and nearly all flights were canceled. Mine was one of the few that looked like it might go out.

But alas, it was canceled and I arrived back home just after 1am.

Rebooked on a 6pm flight today so pray to the weather gods for me! Skye has had a lovely few days exploring London, catching up with friends and is booked in for a fabulous theater production tonight. Hopefully the next post will finally be us together again!

Most likely you are here because you know Skye, Heather, or both of us. We are both turning 50 in 2026 and celebrating by walking Wainwright’s Coast to Coast across England. This was a bucket list item for Skye and she was kind enough to let Heather join her.

In case you don’t know our villain origin story: we met in 1993 when Heather left the US for the first time (thanks Rotary Exchange Program!) and became a student at St John’s College in Dandenong, Victoria, Australia. Skye was in Year 11 at St John’s and the 2 bonded over many things, including their love of Monty Python and Carole King. Here is one of the first photos of us together in September 1993.

From September 1993 to July 1994 we were inseparable. And then our worlds fell apart when Heather’s exchange ended and she returned to Illinois to start university while Skye remained in Australia and finished Year 12.

We wrote airmail letters at least weekly and saved up for our monthly (ridiculously expensive) one hour phone calls. We kept each other up to date on everything….as up to date as you can get via international postal service. Anyone remember sharing photos pre-internet? We took photos on cameras, took them to be developed, wrote “captions ” on the back of any that turned out, put them in an envelope, went to the post office, mailed them, and then waited at least 2 weeks for a reply. Here’s a fabulous example:

And then the international visits began with Heather going back to Australia in 1996 and Skye popping out of a trash can in Heather’s Illinois dorm building in 1997 as a 21st birthday surprise.

In December 1997 Skye completed her University degree and moved to Illinois to stay with Heather and her roommates for their last few months of school. This quick visit extended to 6 years in the States when Skye met James and their whirlwind romance turned into marriage. Heather owes James a debt of gratitude for keeping Skye on the same continent as her as the friends were able to stand up in each other’s weddings and celebrate the birth of Heather and Tim’s 2 kids.

James and Skye moved to Australia in 2003 and the international visits commenced again. Skye and Heather (and Tim and James) have been lucky enough to visit every 2(ish) years in Australia, the US, and Ireland. These visits included another trash can surprise 21 years after the first, but they have agreed that they won’t be doing it again at 63.

A gaggle of memories and now 2 weeks alone together to celebrate 50 years of life and 33 years of friendship. Thanks for joining us on our adventure!