Category: Uncategorized

Too tired to write a full post but we had an amazing day!

A brisk morning walk around a lovely lake

Lunch at the top of Hay Stacks

A hike up Loft Beck

Now off to bed before a long walk tomorrow

Getting here was fairly easy on the train yesterday although there was a slight delay on the first train which meant we didn’t think we would make the connection but we and about 30 other people were most relieved to find the onward train waiting for us at Lancaster. It was a bit squishy at first but quite festive toward the end with some ladies enjoying drinks from a cooler at the group of chairs and table next to us.

We made it to our lodgings (after knocking on someone else’s door due to a very similar name on the house) and then headed to the local pub for dinner and a couple of ales.

This morning we embarked with a spring in our step to meet mile marker zero by the Irish Sea.

We met a fellow walker, Mike, heading off who kindly took our photo and encouraged us (rightly) to proceed with the usual route despite there having been an alternate route posted due to some coastal slippage. We’re so glad to have taken the advice because the views were spectacular and we saw cormorants and guillemots aplenty.

We did remark on multiple occasions that walking in similar terrain in Australia would present a whole different set of risks but today we saw mostly sheep, cows, birds, goats and a mouse – nary a snake in sight. 

The second half of the day saw us turning inland toward our first serious climb – Dent Hill. Sadly there was a much more serious looking set of signs suggesting the way was closed due to forestry work and the ominous sounding ‘deer stalking’ so we opted for a road based detour. It still involved quite a steep climb but when it rejoined the path we were taken on a gorgeous stroll through hills and valleys filled with goats and sheep either side of a babbling brook. Lots of gorgeous little black lambs. Really delightful.

Toward the end of this section Mike caught up with us having found his way over Dent Hill after all. It sounded like we could have made it through after all – a lesson for the rest of the trip.

Just before 4 we found ourselves arriving at our lodging, the Fox and Hounds, ready for a pint to celebrate day 1 with fellow walkers. Mike generously shouted us a beer (next time is on us) and we met a couple who were living in Pittsburgh via New Jersey (US) and Bendigo (AU) and also plan to continue on to the end at roughly the same pace.

I’ve spent the last few days adjusting to the change in time zone and trying to turn my work brain off. A mix of gardens and fine arts have certainly helped.

The Henry Moore exhibition at Kew Gardens was arresting. The placement of his massive sculptures along grand avenues and in juxtaposition with existing features enhanced the experience of both.

It was reasonably good weather, if a little windy, but a very nice way to shake off jet lag wandering a garden with Penny and two of her friends, one of whom came back with us to stay the evening. Penny made a lovely supper of summer salads and the company was a salve having found out that a dear friend had passed back in Australia (it was expected and I had said my goodbyes the day before departure). Vale Robin Klaus, a singular soul.

Wednesday took me to the V&A. I had been trying to book a ticket to the Schiapparelli exhibition but their site refused my foreign credit card or PayPal. I figured I’d try my luck. Sadly it was sold out for the day by 11am so I explained the website problem so they could hopefully fix it for others and a kind woman behind me overheard and offered to take me as her plus 1 on her membership card. Not only did I get in to the exhibition but for free! It was fabulous, kudos to the clever staff who built all the staging cabinets and lighting, it was very impressive.

I spent the rest of the day wandering around the main British collections and was most delighted at a significant display of exceptionally built and decorated locks.

I also spotted this fan favourite:

In the evening I met Henley and his friend Johnno for oysters and wine along the river in a building that had a Dalek in the window (sadly I failed to snap a pic). We also enjoyed a delicious crab and gruyere souffle – a very civilised evening indeed. Henley and I grabbed a pint at a couple of local taverns on the way home, I do love a tiny little neighbourhood pub.

Thursday started badly with Heather’s flight being cancelled. We were both gutted she wouldn’t be able to make it to the theatre that night – our only night together in London – but naught could be done. Thankfully Henley and Penny’s son was free and happy to join me instead so the ticket would not go to waste.

I met an old friend, Viv, for brunch and then we spent the rest of the day gasbagging and wandering around London. We were stuck on a bus for quite a while due to some sort of traffic snafu but it didn’t really matter where we were as there was so much to catch up on and I find her company so easy and interesting.

We went to the Wallace collection for a couple of hours. It’s a mansion turned museum housing all sorts of furniture, artworks, armour etc. Clearly one (perhaps all) of the owners had a penchant for breasts, game and dogs as they were the main object of most of the paintings and busts. For example:

Which just made me think of the scene in Scrooged when the censor is trying to disallow a costume.

I did come across this darling perpetual almanac though featuring the day/week/month along with zodiac, moon phases and saints days.

After saying farewell to Viv I went to my hotel and rested for a bit before meeting Justin for dinner. We went to a Spanish restaurant near the theatre which was great (very yummy octopus and sherry) and then off to the main event: Inter Alia.

The acting, writing and staging were sensational, it thoroughly deserves all the praise it has been getting. Absolutely worth the splurge and an unforgettable performance. Also quite a lovely theatre (Wyndham’s).

We had our first minor glitch of the adventure. A massive storm swept through Chicago yesterday and nearly all flights were canceled. Mine was one of the few that looked like it might go out.

But alas, it was canceled and I arrived back home just after 1am.

Rebooked on a 6pm flight today so pray to the weather gods for me! Skye has had a lovely few days exploring London, catching up with friends and is booked in for a fabulous theater production tonight. Hopefully the next post will finally be us together again!

Arrived safely at Heathrow yesterday evening and was picked up by the lovely Penny. Had a lovely tea of homemade quiche and salads (heaven after plane food) accompanied by some lovely wines courtesy of Henley, a shower and much needed sleep.

Awoke to a bright sunny morning which is helping my body know it’s time to be up.

Now enjoying an English Breakfast tea or two in a very lovely English sunroom before heading to Kew Gardens.

After over a year of planning, months of gear gathering and training, and a truckload of consulting hours to afford it I’m finally in the departure lounge waiting to board.

While I’d rather avoid the 24+ hours of transit it will be so worth it for 2 weeks of having my best friend to myself.

Sadly all my best girls live quite far away so as we started approaching 50 I decided that the best gift for such auspicious occasions would be the gift of time. Last year I spent a wonderful week in Japan with Pippa (who usually lives in Montreal)

Then in July a bit over a week with Monique and Mandi in a heavenly home in Raumati, Aotearoa/New Zealand.

Tonight I head to London (partly also because the US is out of the question for obvious – and obnoxious – reasons) and can’t wait for Heather to join me on Thursday.

Most likely you are here because you know Skye, Heather, or both of us. We are both turning 50 in 2026 and celebrating by walking Wainwright’s Coast to Coast across England. This was a bucket list item for Skye and she was kind enough to let Heather join her.

In case you don’t know our villain origin story: we met in 1993 when Heather left the US for the first time (thanks Rotary Exchange Program!) and became a student at St John’s College in Dandenong, Victoria, Australia. Skye was in Year 11 at St John’s and the 2 bonded over many things, including their love of Monty Python and Carole King. Here is one of the first photos of us together in September 1993.

From September 1993 to July 1994 we were inseparable. And then our worlds fell apart when Heather’s exchange ended and she returned to Illinois to start university while Skye remained in Australia and finished Year 12.

We wrote airmail letters at least weekly and saved up for our monthly (ridiculously expensive) one hour phone calls. We kept each other up to date on everything….as up to date as you can get via international postal service. Anyone remember sharing photos pre-internet? We took photos on cameras, took them to be developed, wrote “captions ” on the back of any that turned out, put them in an envelope, went to the post office, mailed them, and then waited at least 2 weeks for a reply. Here’s a fabulous example:

And then the international visits began with Heather going back to Australia in 1996 and Skye popping out of a trash can in Heather’s Illinois dorm building in 1997 as a 21st birthday surprise.

In December 1997 Skye completed her University degree and moved to Illinois to stay with Heather and her roommates for their last few months of school. This quick visit extended to 6 years in the States when Skye met James and their whirlwind romance turned into marriage. Heather owes James a debt of gratitude for keeping Skye on the same continent as her as the friends were able to stand up in each other’s weddings and celebrate the birth of Heather and Tim’s 2 kids.

James and Skye moved to Australia in 2003 and the international visits commenced again. Skye and Heather (and Tim and James) have been lucky enough to visit every 2(ish) years in Australia, the US, and Ireland. These visits included another trash can surprise 21 years after the first, but they have agreed that they won’t be doing it again at 63.

A gaggle of memories and now 2 weeks alone together to celebrate 50 years of life and 33 years of friendship. Thanks for joining us on our adventure!

Welcome to “Skye and Heather Do The UK”. Or “Heather and Skye Coast to Coast”. Or “192 miles at Fifty”. Or “What the Actual F Were We Thinking?” Whatever we end up calling it, follow our shenanigans here as we embark on our grand adventure!

*actual image of Heather and Skye in togs