Day 1: St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Getting here was fairly easy on the train yesterday although there was a slight delay on the first train which meant we didn’t think we would make the connection but we and about 30 other people were most relieved to find the onward train waiting for us at Lancaster. It was a bit squishy at first but quite festive toward the end with some ladies enjoying drinks from a cooler at the group of chairs and table next to us.

We made it to our lodgings (after knocking on someone else’s door due to a very similar name on the house) and then headed to the local pub for dinner and a couple of ales.

This morning we embarked with a spring in our step to meet mile marker zero by the Irish Sea.

We met a fellow walker, Mike, heading off who kindly took our photo and encouraged us (rightly) to proceed with the usual route despite there having been an alternate route posted due to some coastal slippage. We’re so glad to have taken the advice because the views were spectacular and we saw cormorants and guillemots aplenty.

We did remark on multiple occasions that walking in similar terrain in Australia would present a whole different set of risks but today we saw mostly sheep, cows, birds, goats and a mouse – nary a snake in sight. 

The second half of the day saw us turning inland toward our first serious climb – Dent Hill. Sadly there was a much more serious looking set of signs suggesting the way was closed due to forestry work and the ominous sounding ‘deer stalking’ so we opted for a road based detour. It still involved quite a steep climb but when it rejoined the path we were taken on a gorgeous stroll through hills and valleys filled with goats and sheep either side of a babbling brook. Lots of gorgeous little black lambs. Really delightful.

Toward the end of this section Mike caught up with us having found his way over Dent Hill after all. It sounded like we could have made it through after all – a lesson for the rest of the trip.

Just before 4 we found ourselves arriving at our lodging, the Fox and Hounds, ready for a pint to celebrate day 1 with fellow walkers. Mike generously shouted us a beer (next time is on us) and we met a couple who were living in Pittsburgh via New Jersey (US) and Bendigo (AU) and also plan to continue on to the end at roughly the same pace.