Day 4: Patterdale to Shap

After a hearty breakfast courtesy of the sweet and generous shepherdess at Noran Bank Farm we started our day with a gnarly climb up Kidsty Pike. Initially grateful to come across some fellow walkers they soon left us in the dust (or clouds rather). For much of the next 4 hours we could barely see 20ft in front of us. Wayfinding was troublesome, particularly across the grassy expanse that was clearly the middle of an ancient volcano. The guidebook had extolled the virtues of all the amazing views but they were not for us today. No, for us it was constant mist, very grey, knowing there was a large tarn to our right that we couldn’t see only from hearing calls of geese, and wild winds threatening to drive us off the pass. A couple of other walkers came up behind us with their young black labrador at the top and helpfully confirmed we were heading down the right track to work our way down the very steep mountain. Hilariously they suggested we take note of the crag (aka: gigantic cliff) to our right – completely invisible to the naked eye.

The very steep clamber down was a challenge I’m not sure either of us thought our bodies up to but we made it unscathed.

It wasn’t until the very end of our descent that we could finally see a part of what we had been missing and it really was quite stunning. 

After that adventure we stopped for a quick bite out of our packed lunch from the Shepherdess – they really are so generous, we don’t think we’ll need another for the next couple of days with our leftovers from the last two. The flies however also thought it was a grand idea so we didn’t stop long but continued along the water in a far less strenuous fashion (except for an annoyingly steep mound the guide book had warned us about).

There was evidence of red squirrels but sadly not the live variety – something definitely had quite a feast along the track following the northern edge of Haweswater Reservoir.

As we descended out of the eastern part of the lakes district into the rolling hills our knees and calves were most thankful. We were lucky again not to be rained on (aside from the 4 hours of mist and 40-60 knot winds blowing us around over the mountain this morning). The final few hours saw us wandering through fields of sheep (and lambs), goats (and kids) and cows (and calves) – with plenty of flies who seemed to think we smelled better (or worse?!) than the plentiful poop lining the path. We also found quite a bit of mud. Our shoes are definitely dirtier than any other day so far.

We also found ourselves at times in idyllic meadows filled with buttercups and daisies.

Trudging into Shap at the end of the day we were again welcomed with the exceptional Lakeland hospitality we have come to expect along with a darling 4-month old puppy in the lodge’s bar.

Skye was also delighted to try the local ale named Lawyers, Guns and Money #thanksYFS