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Stayed at: Swaledale Yurts

We started the morning with breakfast at our BnB and then a stroll through town. We visited a gorgeous church which has vicars recorded back as far as 1223! They’ve kept fantastic documentation and house a collection of incredible artifacts and a beautiful pipe organ that we were lucky enough to hear being played.

Today called for rain and low visibility so we decided to give our aching bodies a bit of a rest and took the low route. Still up to 1100ft/340m elevation but definitely easier than the 2172ft/660m elevation of the higher route.

We saw sheep, cows, goats, waterfalls, ancient ruins and also one very happy horse rolling in a meadow.

Because of our early arrival we are already in our yurt on the banks of the River Swale (yes, a yurt!), listening to the rain and reading/stitching. A perfect chance to rest our weary legs before a lovely home-cooked meal and an hour in the hot tub tonight! Much needed rest before a long and difficult day expected tomorrow.

Stayed at: Old Croft House

Today was a glorious day of walking; with very little elevation! Lovely weather (63F/16C and partly cloudy with a beautiful breeze)

We tackled 20.5 m/33km in our quickest finish thus far. What a difference it makes walking rolling hills instead of hiking mountains!

Even though it was our longest distance walked (so far), it was our easiest day: filled with flowers, sheep, cows, dogs, bucolic views, conversation, and loads of sheep poop.

We are now safely ensconced in a fabulous BnB in the lovely town of Kirkby Stephen.

And as we type we are enjoying a local ale at a pub hosting an open mic featuring fiddle, recorder (!) and many guitars and singers. It’s reminding Skye of The Mighty Boosh in the nicest possible way.

Stayed at: New Ing Lodge

After a hearty breakfast courtesy of the sweet and generous shepherdess at Noran Bank Farm we started our day with a gnarly climb up Kidsty Pike. Initially grateful to come across some fellow walkers they soon left us in the dust (or clouds rather). For much of the next 4 hours we could barely see 20ft in front of us. Wayfinding was troublesome, particularly across the grassy expanse that was clearly the middle of an ancient volcano. The guidebook had extolled the virtues of all the amazing views but they were not for us today. No, for us it was constant mist, very grey, knowing there was a large tarn to our right that we couldn’t see only from hearing calls of geese, and wild winds threatening to drive us off the pass. A couple of other walkers came up behind us with their young black labrador at the top and helpfully confirmed we were heading down the right track to work our way down the very steep mountain. Hilariously they suggested we take note of the crag (aka: gigantic cliff) to our right – completely invisible to the naked eye.

The very steep clamber down was a challenge I’m not sure either of us thought our bodies up to but we made it unscathed.

It wasn’t until the very end of our descent that we could finally see a part of what we had been missing and it really was quite stunning. 

After that adventure we stopped for a quick bite out of our packed lunch from the Shepherdess – they really are so generous, we don’t think we’ll need another for the next couple of days with our leftovers from the last two. The flies however also thought it was a grand idea so we didn’t stop long but continued along the water in a far less strenuous fashion (except for an annoyingly steep mound the guide book had warned us about).

There was evidence of red squirrels but sadly not the live variety – something definitely had quite a feast along the track following the northern edge of Haweswater Reservoir.

As we descended out of the eastern part of the lakes district into the rolling hills our knees and calves were most thankful. We were lucky again not to be rained on (aside from the 4 hours of mist and 40-60 knot winds blowing us around over the mountain this morning). The final few hours saw us wandering through fields of sheep (and lambs), goats (and kids) and cows (and calves) – with plenty of flies who seemed to think we smelled better (or worse?!) than the plentiful poop lining the path. We also found quite a bit of mud. Our shoes are definitely dirtier than any other day so far.

We also found ourselves at times in idyllic meadows filled with buttercups and daisies.

Trudging into Shap at the end of the day we were again welcomed with the exceptional Lakeland hospitality we have come to expect along with a darling 4-month old puppy in the lodge’s bar.

Skye was also delighted to try the local ale named Lawyers, Guns and Money #thanksYFS

Stayed at: Noran Bank Farm

For a bit of context to today’s post:

We started our day at the lovely Langstrath Country Inn. Many people we’ve met along the way are jealous because we got into the best accommodations thanks to Skye being so well prepared and starting the booking process last July!

We started out early and had a fabulous 4 hour hike with beautiful views on the way to Grasmere.

Grasmere is a sweet little (very old) village with lots of tourists. We had a fabulous lunch and then visited William Wordsworth’s grave and the famous Grasmere Gingerbread shop. Lines can be down the block but we got lucky with only a short line and snagged a bag of fresh (still warm!) gingerbread.

We then resumed our hike for what should have been a 4 hour very steep hike to our next accommodation. It was amazing! The best hike I think I’ve ever been on. Incredible views and walking miles along the ridge of a mountain with views on either side. Absolutely stunning.

Only issue: we made a wrong turn. Somewhere in what should have been a 4 hour hike, we followed the wrong pile of rocks and took a significant detour.

Thankfully technology exists and once we were in Rydal and had cell service, we realized our mistake. We grabbed a meal at the pub and called an Uber #thanksYFS. Heading to bed and off on another adventure tomorrow!

Stayed at: Langstrath Hotel

EDIT: 15/6 update to Day 2

After an incredibly warm welcome and hosting at Fox and Hounds we headed directly for the western edge of Ennerdale Water. You can choose to go around it on either side but we opted for the original Wainwright route which did not disappoint. We dipped our hands in the water at Anglers Crag and roughly halfway along the southern boundary we climbed Robin Hood’s chair before walking along a lovely, mossy forest where a tree had grown in such a way to form a natural bench with a view of the water.

After reaching the eastern end of Ennerdale water we began our ascent along a path through plantations. After a rather long but gentle uphill climb we headed up a rather steep zig zag trail to Hay Stacks – the place Alfred Wainwright suggested his ashes be scattered. While the climb winded us it was totally worth it. Such a peaceful spot with truly awe inspiring views. It also had a few walkers with dogs, one of whom looked a lot like our Bonnie and came sniffing around for any lunch items we may not have had a use for.

The clamber down and following steep haul up and over Loft Beck were trying but the ridge walk views were amazing.

Descending was a challenge but we made it and were so glad to see some of the walkers from the day before as we walked into town at Stonethwaite to our lodgings at Langstrath Country Inn.

A shower, a feed and a couple of ales had us gratefully in bed by 10.

While eating dinner one of the biggest dogs I’ve ever seen walked in. It looked like a mastiff cross keeshond. Most likely a Leonberger. Did not manage to get a photo but far out it was enormous.

Stayed at: Fox & Hounds

Getting here was fairly easy on the train yesterday although there was a slight delay on the first train which meant we didn’t think we would make the connection but we and about 30 other people were most relieved to find the onward train waiting for us at Lancaster. It was a bit squishy at first but quite festive toward the end with some ladies enjoying drinks from a cooler at the group of chairs and table next to us.

We made it to our lodgings (after knocking on someone else’s door due to a very similar name on the house) and then headed to the local pub for dinner and a couple of ales.

This morning we embarked with a spring in our step to meet mile marker zero by the Irish Sea.

We met a fellow walker, Mike, heading off who kindly took our photo and encouraged us (rightly) to proceed with the usual route despite there having been an alternate route posted due to some coastal slippage. We’re so glad to have taken the advice because the views were spectacular and we saw cormorants and guillemots aplenty.

We did remark on multiple occasions that walking in similar terrain in Australia would present a whole different set of risks but today we saw mostly sheep, cows, birds, goats and a mouse – nary a snake in sight. 

The second half of the day saw us turning inland toward our first serious climb – Dent Hill. Sadly there was a much more serious looking set of signs suggesting the way was closed due to forestry work and the ominous sounding ‘deer stalking’ so we opted for a road based detour. It still involved quite a steep climb but when it rejoined the path we were taken on a gorgeous stroll through hills and valleys filled with goats and sheep either side of a babbling brook. Lots of gorgeous little black lambs. Really delightful.

Toward the end of this section Mike caught up with us having found his way over Dent Hill after all. It sounded like we could have made it through after all – a lesson for the rest of the trip.

Just before 4 we found ourselves arriving at our lodging, the Fox and Hounds, ready for a pint to celebrate day 1 with fellow walkers. Mike generously shouted us a beer (next time is on us) and we met a couple who were living in Pittsburgh via New Jersey (US) and Bendigo (AU) and also plan to continue on to the end at roughly the same pace.

Stayed at: Fairladies Barn

I’ve spent the last few days adjusting to the change in time zone and trying to turn my work brain off. A mix of gardens and fine arts have certainly helped.

The Henry Moore exhibition at Kew Gardens was arresting. The placement of his massive sculptures along grand avenues and in juxtaposition with existing features enhanced the experience of both.

It was reasonably good weather, if a little windy, but a very nice way to shake off jet lag wandering a garden with Penny and two of her friends, one of whom came back with us to stay the evening. Penny made a lovely supper of summer salads and the company was a salve having found out that a dear friend had passed back in Australia (it was expected and I had said my goodbyes the day before departure). Vale Robin Klaus, a singular soul.

Wednesday took me to the V&A. I had been trying to book a ticket to the Schiapparelli exhibition but their site refused my foreign credit card or PayPal. I figured I’d try my luck. Sadly it was sold out for the day by 11am so I explained the website problem so they could hopefully fix it for others and a kind woman behind me overheard and offered to take me as her plus 1 on her membership card. Not only did I get in to the exhibition but for free! It was fabulous, kudos to the clever staff who built all the staging cabinets and lighting, it was very impressive.

I spent the rest of the day wandering around the main British collections and was most delighted at a significant display of exceptionally built and decorated locks.

I also spotted this fan favourite:

In the evening I met Henley and his friend Johnno for oysters and wine along the river in a building that had a Dalek in the window (sadly I failed to snap a pic). We also enjoyed a delicious crab and gruyere souffle – a very civilised evening indeed. Henley and I grabbed a pint at a couple of local taverns on the way home, I do love a tiny little neighbourhood pub.

Thursday started badly with Heather’s flight being cancelled. We were both gutted she wouldn’t be able to make it to the theatre that night – our only night together in London – but naught could be done. Thankfully Henley and Penny’s son was free and happy to join me instead so the ticket would not go to waste.

I met an old friend, Viv, for brunch and then we spent the rest of the day gasbagging and wandering around London. We were stuck on a bus for quite a while due to some sort of traffic snafu but it didn’t really matter where we were as there was so much to catch up on and I find her company so easy and interesting.

We went to the Wallace collection for a couple of hours. It’s a mansion turned museum housing all sorts of furniture, artworks, armour etc. Clearly one (perhaps all) of the owners had a penchant for breasts, game and dogs as they were the main object of most of the paintings and busts. For example:

Which just made me think of the scene in Scrooged when the censor is trying to disallow a costume.

I did come across this darling perpetual almanac though featuring the day/week/month along with zodiac, moon phases and saints days.

After saying farewell to Viv I went to my hotel and rested for a bit before meeting Justin for dinner. We went to a Spanish restaurant near the theatre which was great (very yummy octopus and sherry) and then off to the main event: Inter Alia.

The acting, writing and staging were sensational, it thoroughly deserves all the praise it has been getting. Absolutely worth the splurge and an unforgettable performance. Also quite a lovely theatre (Wyndham’s).

We had our first minor glitch of the adventure. A massive storm swept through Chicago yesterday and nearly all flights were canceled. Mine was one of the few that looked like it might go out.

But alas, it was canceled and I arrived back home just after 1am.

Rebooked on a 6pm flight today so pray to the weather gods for me! Skye has had a lovely few days exploring London, catching up with friends and is booked in for a fabulous theater production tonight. Hopefully the next post will finally be us together again!